In another post to come I’ll describe this year’s stretch of camping along the South West Coast Path Falmouth to St Ives, which we’re walking in the unofficial direction of Poole to Minehead. This post will be of interest to anybody hoping to sustain a vegan diet on that stretch of the path. For other stretches see my other posts tagged SWCP.
First of all, I should admit that I lost my nerve a bit. Sometimes my plans didn’t come to fruition and I didn’t feel comfortable to request vegan adjustments on the fly. I felt metropolitan and out of step so I either went without (and paid over the odds) or bent my own rules. This bothers me, and in future I hope to be a bit firmer. But there were certainly some high points.
We each carried a spork, penknives, and a non-leaking sandwich box. We tended to drink tap water – I had 1.5l in sigg bottles and Matt also has a hydration pack. Had the weather been warmer, the distances longer, the going more strenuous, or the beach cafes lacking (as between Pendeen and St Ives), we’d each have needed an extra half litre. Matt also carried four Trek bars (Holland and Barrett sell these) in case we needed them for a breakfast.
That evening we walked along the coast path to have a drink at the Chain Locker on the old harbour (West
on cider) before one of the more memorable meals I’ve had in my life at Pea Souk, a vegetarian cafe which has embarked on an ambitious series of supper clubs on a different national theme. That night’s was Persian. The most astonishing thing was the number of people Nicola Willis managed to fit (not cram, but comfortably fit) into such a small space – 17 diners, to be exact, all eating the same menu (with small vegan adjustments for me), plus a man playing Persian classical music on a bazuki. The food was absolutely outstanding – particularly the vegan alternative slice of something cheesecakey and crunchy soused in, I think, rose and orange blossom syrup. I have never eaten such a delectable dessert.
From Pea Souk we bought our lunch for next day – a porkless pie for Matt and for me a selection of salads. For those four meals (including beer) the bill was something like £65.
It was late when we left Pea Souk, so on our way back to the campsite we bought next morning’s breakfast from Tesco near the Discovery Centre, which closes at 10. I had one of their strange falafel wraps (mango chutney is original but not entirely successful).
Falmouth – Porthallow
Breakfast was the aforementioned wrap from Tesco, eaten at the campsite.
Lunch was the aforementioned take-out from Pea Souk, eaten at Helston by the ford.
That night we camped at the diving centre in Porthkerris and ate dinner at the Five Pilchards in Porthallow. Unfortunately the chef who had offered a vegan alternative had left (to his colleagues’ satisfaction) and the new chef, who seemed to be attempting to follow his predecessor’s menu, had nothing for either Matt or me, so we ate chips and salad. The owner apologised and said he hoped to accommodate us better next time. So, the lesson is to confirm plans close to the date. We stayed to drink at the Five Pilchards.
Porthallow to Coverack
This was a short day – mainly because of a late decision to camp on the coast at the diving centre rather than Helford River Camping further inland.
Breakfast – although the diving centre had a cafe, we noticed that there was a new and attractive-looking place directly on the Coast Path, called Fat Apples Cafe. No website that I can find, but a large number of enthusiastic reviews. I was impressed by the young man who kindly adapted a cooked breakfast for me, including (because they only had butter, no marge) very well fried bread – a bit of oil in pan, not saturated. If you’re reading, I’m sorry we didn’t tip – we each thought the other had done it. Fat Apples is a new start after the family business – a packaging company with origins in Leyton – fell foul of the financial crisis. Good luck to them, though I’m sure they won’t need it. They offer ‘wild camping’, which means wifi but no shower.
We ate lunch in Coverack, pea and mint soup at Archie’s Loft. The woman behind the counter thought it probably was vegan, it was raining and there was nothing else that looked like a safer option. I think it tasted buttery, which most people who aren’t used to it find is an unpleasantly pungent flavour.
We were camping at the Youth Hostel in Coverack, and we ate dinner there – the dining room has a beautiful view of the bay. Notably, a batch of milk had gone bad before its use-by date so everybody was on soya milk. I ate a good tagine and Matt had a bean stew, also vegan. And I found out after committing to fruit salad that the blackberry crumble had been vegan. That was around £10 for the two courses. The man on the desk (also cooking) confirmed my prior impressions that for YHA, packed lunch for a vegan entails removing items rather than substituting them, so we didn’t have one.
We then went for a drink at the Paris Hotel in Coverack.
Coverack to Lizard
Breakfast was a cooked one at the Youth Hostel – baked beans, mushrooms, toast, hash browns. The margarine was Flora, which I don’t think was vegan. I can’t remember whether I ate it – there were some days I had margarine which wasn’t vegan and some days I resisted – this often has something to do with whether or not I calculate it would confuse the staff. If I were running these places I’d make it all vegan. Vegan margarine is easy enough to come by.
We bought lunch from Coverack Post Office – I can’t remember the name of the range of Mediterranean-style salads in plastic tubs, but you tend to get them in independent stores all over the country. I had one with kidney beans and one with couscous. They have a slightly strange metallic flavour, but at least they contain more than one major food group.
At the Lizard we had planned vegan dinner at Henry’s Campsite where we were staying, but the Galleon was locked up because the chef had departed – that meant no breakfast or packed lunch either. After a futile walk in the rain down to Lizard’s Youth Hostel (it’s staffed by volunteers and entirely self-catering) we returned to Lizard where, after checking there was no cream in it, I had the thai curry vegetarian option at the Top House, one of Lizard’s two pubs. It was £9 or £10 and we stayed on for the evening chatting to people on the neighbouring tables.
Lizard to Porthleven
At the butchers(!) in Lizard we bought a tray of flapjack for breakfast, two thirds of which we ate in a bus shelter across the road.
There we also bought some lovely soft white rolls, houmous and cherry tomatoes for lunch, which we ate in Mullion Cove during a gap in the rain with a bag of crisps from the cafe.
For dinner at Porthleven we had pizza and salad at Amelie’s (I leave off the cheese and ask for chilli oil instead). Since it was Wednesday, pizzas were two-for-one and the bill was modest. It looked as if there were other options but they were pricey.
We had a pint at The Ship where the harbour meets the sea.
Porthleven to Marazion
At Porthleven we stayed at the Copper Kettle, a welcoming place I can’t thank or praise enough. The new owner is from Porthleven and made every accommodation for me. I apologise for not having thought to let her know that I don’t take soya milk with my cereal or coffee at breakfast – and thanks for getting the sausages.
We bought lunch from the Spar at Porthleven – same range of salads as we got at Coverack.
Dinner was very enjoyable – we got the bus into Penzance (about 3 miles away) with a hankering for Chinese. We decided on Sunny City on Market Jew Street(!). It has large premises which look plush and banquety if you don’t look to closely, but are cheap, stained and more than a little depressing if you do. We were the only people there, and beginning to lose confidence. But the gent who served us was attentive and prompt, everything was clean, and the food was good – not salty or greasy. I had bean curd, vegetables and boiled rice. I recommend this food – I think it’s mostly a take-away place, which would explain the shabby premises. For two, the bill was just £22, including green tea.
We bought next morning’s breakfast from the Co-op – a rhubarb tart for £1.
Marazion to Lamorna Cove
For breakfast we ate the aforementioned Co-op custard tart from Penzance the previous evening.
At Penzance we were seduced into Archie Brown’s for elevenses – I had a fantastic vegan orange cake. Downstairs in the health food store we bought four tofu hazelnut cutlets – these are shrink-wrapped and (in practice) keep unrefrigerated. To accompany them we bought cherry tomatoes and pitta bread from the Co-op. Those were for future lunches – but that day’s lunch was a specifically vegan cornish pasty from Lavender’s pasty shop, also Market Jew Street. There was a choice of two, and I had the chilli one. We ate these on the harbour wall at Mousehole.
We camped a mile and a half away from Lamorna Cove and since the local pub, the Lamorna Wink, was being refurbished, we whetted our wallets and stepped out without warning to try the patience of the chef at The Cove Hotel, a formal place with a swimming pool overlooking the cove. We had a very enjoyable, clever meal.
I had a starter with the two kinds or artichokes, parsley emulsion, marbled beetroot, cucumber slices marinated in cumin, and white onion puree. Matt had vegetarian watercress soup followed by a salad with root vegetables and local cheese, with a cheeseboard for afters. My main course was a pearl barley risotto. They lit a wood fire and two other couples arrived. With beer, a bottle of wine and tip we paid £100. According to the gracious waiting staff, the chef showed no sign of upset and we were welcomed despite our unkempt appearance.
Lamorna Cove to Sennen Cove
Boleigh Farm, where we were camping, is very beautiful and not near any shops, so for breakfast we ate the Trek bars that Matt had been carrying since the beginning. I tend to burn through those quite fast, compared to a cooked breakfast.
At lunchtime we stopped for a coffee at Porthgwarra’s shop. After inquiring about vegan food to no avail, I asked the man if we could eat our lunch at his picnic tables. “Go right ahead”, he said, pleasantly. We had another coffee each and Matt had a pasty. We used the shop’s wifi. We ate the tofu cutlets, pitta and tomato we’d bought in Penzance.
We diverted to ‘top’ Sennen for the Costcutter, where we bought the next day’s lunch of Warburton sandwich thins, houmous and more tomatoes, and had a drink in the First and Last Inn.
Sennen Cove was about half an hour’s beautiful walk along the coast from our campsite at Trevedra Farm, and we were late that evening so I ended up with chips and salad for dinner at the Old Success Inn – Matt had vegetable lasagne. The bill was around £16 not including beer.
Incidentally, Lands End visitors’ centre is no respite for walkers or seemingly even for ordinary punters, who sit sadly on benches trying to suck some comfort from their over-priced ice creams.
Sennen Cove to Pendeen
Breakfast was a cooked one at the Ocean Blue Cafe at Trevedra Farm campsite.
We were soaked through by the time we packed up our tent so I made the decision to abandon the day’s walk and instead get the 300 bus along the coast to Geevor Tin Mine, a substantial museum among the disused mines which comprise Cornwall’s UNESCO World Heritage site. More about all that in my next post – this one is about food so suffice to say that for lunch I had a very good, very filling vegan lentil and carrot soup there – and it seemed that local people were arriving just to eat their Sunday lunch at the restaurant, which did indeed have beautiful sea views and a cheerful informal bustle about it.
At Pendeen we camped at the North Inn, which had several modestly-priced vegetarian options for dinner. Matt and I shared a couple of vegan curries.
Pendeen to St Ives
At the covered picnic tables of the North Inn we had the rest of the Penzance pitta with the houmous and tomatoes from Sennen Costcutter for breakfast.
At the Pendeen Costcutter we got crisps and sweets. The weather was warm and fine and we had a lunch of more houmous, the Sennen sandwich thins and tomatoes on a bench at Trewey Cliff – I forget now to whom that bench was commemorated but I knew at the time and was grateful.
Dinner was at Spinacio’s, a vegetarian restaurant overlooking St Ives harbour. I very much enjoyed seeing the tide coming in and betting with Matt how long it would take a certain boat to start to float (always underestimating). Matt had a sambar with coconut rice, I had a borlotti bean cake with a satay sauce and squash puree. My meal was tasty enough but I think a little unbalanced in terms of weight and texture – the addition of a large, sharp chunk of pickled beetroot helped a lot. The bill for two courses and a bottle of wine, and tip was I think around £60.
St Ives to London
Breakfast was at our B&B, the Carlyon Guest House. They offered a vegetarian breakfast, which had attracted us in the first place, but they didn’t have any margarine and the grilled food tasted quite meaty indicating that there weren’t separate areas of the grill for meat and non-meat. Again, this may have been to do with the lack of notice – we had decided to get B&B accommodation because of a mixture of wet weather, Matt’s sleeping mat developing a puncture and figuring it would be better to be near the station so we could leave our bags while we did the sight-seeing. We hadn’t given notice of vegan requirements and so we weren’t accommodated to the same standard.
For lunch we had a pasty each on the harbour wall – I can’t remember where they were from but they weren’t brilliant.
For dinner on the train I had a generous and I would even say fulfilling vegan pasty from Pengenna Pasties, a ready-made crispy salad from the Coop and a carton of grapes. Matt had the same, except his salad was from . From the Halzephron Herb Shop we also got a raw chocolate pie to share. I really love those.